n the high version, the highest ranking hand wins all the money at the showdown. If this player's best five cards are equal to an opponent's, they will split the pot equally.

OMAHA HIGH-LOW 8 OR BETTER
In Omaha High-Low 8 or Better, there are often split pots at the showdown. In fact, there are often multiple split pots. For example, if two low hands are tied for best, and there is a high-hand winner, the high hand will take half the pot, and the two low players will get quartered—each of them will split the low half, or get one quarter of the total pot.

If there happened to be three low winners, they would split the low end three ways, or get one-sixth of the pot each, with the high side winner taking sole possession of the high half of the pot. Ties for high would be split the same way—all winners get an equal portion from the high half of the pot, or from the whole pot if no player qualifies for low.

For there to be a winner on the low end, that hand must be no worse than 8 or better. For example, a player would need to hold, say, 8 7 5 3 A to qualify. A hand of 9 7 3 2 A would not qualify, even though it may be the lowest hand. Instead, the high end winner or winners would get all the spoils.

As I've said, to qualify for the best five-card hand, a player must use two cards from his four cards and three from the community cards. Thus, a player holding 2 3 4 6 with a community board of A 7 10 J K would not have a qualified low hand since only the 2 and 3 could be used from his own cards.

In casino games, cards speak determines the best hands at the showdown, while in private games, there is often a declare, with players announcing which part of the pot they're going for. Thus, if a player declares low in a private game and doesn't have the best low, that player wins nothing, even if he happened to have the best high hand. If he declared both ways, high-low, and won only one of the ways, he would also lose the entire pot. In the casino game, the cards themselves will determine the winners and losers.

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In casino games, a button is used to simulate the dealers position, since a house employee actually deals the game. It is moved clockwise around the table after each deal, so that every player in turn gets to play the dealer's position and can benefit from that advantage. As in hold 'em, position is extremely important in the Omaha games. The player on the button is in the best spot.

Each player starts by receiving four cards dealt facedown, one at a time, from the dealer. Again, the deal begins with the player at the button or dealer's left. It proceeds clockwise, until all players have received their allotment. There are normally two blinds in the casino games, a small blind and a big blind. The small blind-the player to the left of the button position—goes first, and the big blind—the player to his left—goes next.

As in all poker games, all action proceeds clockwise around the table. The order of receiving cards and betting remains the same throughout the deal. The button will always act last, and the first active player to the button's left will always go first. Unlike seven-card stud, where the order of betting changes depending upon what cards are held on board, in Omaha, position remains constant throughout a deal. When a hand is completed, the button will move one place to the left, and for that deal the order of betting again would remain constant in the deal.

The big blind, the second bet, is normally equal to the lower range bet in limit Omaha, while the small blind is less than that amount. For example, in a $15-$30 limit game, the big blind would be $15. The amount of the blinds can vary from game to game. Again, after the blinds are made, each succeeding player must either call these blinds to stay active, raise the blinds, or fold. All bets in this round must be in the lower increment of the two-tier structure: $15 in a $15-$30 game, $5 in $5-$ 10, $50 in $50-$100, and so on.
O nee all betting has been completed, three cards are turned face up in the center of the table. This is the flop, to be shared by all players. There is another round of betting, starting with the small blind. If he has dropped, betting begins with the big blind, or the player in the next active position to his left. (The blinds may have folded due to raises after their plays.)

The first player to act may bet or check as he pleases—there is no forced blind bet in this round, or the future betting rounds. It is only in the first betting round, when the initial four cards are dealt, that there is a blind. In fact, all players can check across the board if they so please. Of course, though, once a bet is made, succeeding players must call that bet (and raises if made), or they must fold their cards. As in the first round of betting, all bets are again at the lower increment. In a $10-$20 game, bets and raises would be for $10. If the game were $3-$6, they would be for $3.
When betting is completed, a fourth community card is dealt face-up. This is fourth street. There's another round of betting. Then comes fifth street, where the fifth and final community card is dealt face-up in the middle of the table for all to share. Betting on fourth and fifth streets is in the upper limit of the two-tier structure. In the $5-$ 10 game, bets and raises would be in $10 increments, and in a $15-$30 game, $30 increments.

Fifth street marks the last card the players will receive and the last betting round. Now comes the showdown. Players combine their best two hole cards with three of the five community cards to form their best and final five-card hand. The highest ranking hand wins at the showdown. If all opponents have folded, the last remaining player wins the pot by default. He collects all the antes, bets, and raises that were made.

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A relatively new form of poker that took hold in cardrooms and casinos in the 1990's is the very exciting game of Omaha. Action is plentiful, especially in the high-low variations, where multi-way pots and frequent raising make the game very exciting. More and more players are finding that Omaha is their game of choice.

Players will choose from a total pool of nine cards to form their best five-card hands. Four of these cards will be in their own possession, dealt to them as down cards, while five cards will be face up in the community pool to be shared by all. Players may not choosejust any of the nine cards for their final five-card hands. They must use two cards from their own set of four cards and three from the community pool. Thus, if a player were dealt four aces in the hole, only two of the aces would count toward the final hand. The remaining three cards would have to come from the board.

In the case of Omaha high-low, players can choose one set for the high hand and one set for the low hand. For example, if a player held QQ5 2, and the board showed Q K A 7 6, two queens from his cards would be used to form the hand QQQA K— three queens with ace and king kickers for high. His 5 and 2 would be used to form 7 6 5 2 Q for low. In both of these instances, as you see, two of the player's down cards and three community cards were used to make the final poker hand.

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These hands are listed in descending order, best hand first:
JJ
AJ
KQ
A10
KJ (suited)
1010
QJ (suited)
K10 (suited)
KJ
Q10 (suited)

Play your marginal hands in hold 'em as you would play marginal hands in the other poker variations-stay in only if the cost is cheap. These hands have possibilities, but they're not worth the price of a stiff bet. To enter the betting with marginal hands, you must take into account your position at the table.

The last position is the best. It permits you to see what prior bets were made before committing your hand. When you're facing heavy bets and raises, you must fold marginal hands. If only a call is necessary, however, give these cards a chance at the flop. A good flop can turn these cards into favorites.

In early or middle position, if you're holding marginal hands, you can call the opening bet. If there's been a raise, though, you must fold. If there is a raise after the initial bet has been called, you can see this raise also, but you must fold in the face of a double raise, or in situations where yet another raise can follow.

WEAK HANDS
All other hands, ones not shown in the above three categories, should be folded. They are heavy underdogs with little chances of winning. If you're playing in a hold 'em game requiring a blind or opening bet, by all means, though, take the flop for free. If it costs you to see the flop, fold immediately. It's much cheaper watching this round as a bystander.

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These hands are listed in descending order, best hand first:
AA
KK
AK (suited)
QQ
AQ (suited)
AK

The above six starting card combinations are the best in hold 'em. They are strong enough to call from any position at the table, and you should play them aggressively. Excellent starting cards in hold 'em, more than in any other poker variation, will hold up and finish as winners, so with these cards you'll be raising at the first opportunity.

You're the favorite in this game, and you want to build up the pot. At the same time, though, you want to force out players with strong or marginal hands. If the cost to play is too cheap, more players will take a shot at the flop. The more players who stay in the pot, the greater the risk is that a weaker hand will draw out and beat your favorite.

STRONG STARTING HANDS IN HOLD 'EM
These hands are also listed in descending order:
AQ
AJ (suited)
A10 (suited)
KQ (suited)

Hands of an ace plus a high card are powerful combinations in hold 'em. If the flop, fourth, or fifth street shows an ace, these paired aces tower over any kings, queens, or lesser pairs that other players may hold. It's tough to play picture pairs against an ace flop; you've got to figure at least one opponent for a hidden ace. Since only the best hand wins, you must fold lesser pairs against an open ace.

Suited high cards are strong because they give a player the twin chance of forming a high pair or suiting up to a possible flush. You can play the hands in the strong category from any position. Though they're not as strong as the hands in the "strongest" group, you should still play them aggressively for maximum value.

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To be a winner at poker, you must exercise sound money management principles and have emotional control. The temptation to ride a winning streak too hard in the hopes of a big killing or to bet wildly during a losing streak, trying for a quick comeback, are the most common factors that destroy gamblers. Inevitably, the big winning sessions dissipate into small wins or disastrous setbacks, while moderately bad losing sessions can turn into nightmares.

In any gambling pursuit, where luck plays a role, fluctuations in one's fortunes are common. It is the ability of a player to successfully deal with these pendulous swings of the bankroll that is a vital element in the winning formula. Luck certainly plays a role in what cards are drawn, and, in the short run, can sway its weight toward or against player. The overriding factor in poker, though, is skill. It is the play of those cards received that determines the end result.

Good players don't always win, just as poor players don't always lose. That's a fact of life at the poker tables. You can't win every hand or every session. However, if you stick by the winning principles outlined in this book and follow the money management advice outlined in this section, you should end up a consistent winner at poker.
The player that consistently gives his winnings back to the table doesn't give himself a chance to win. In a sense, he's a player who refuses to win. No matter how well a poker session is going, that player feels the need to keep playing until the money is gone. He either subconsciously takes on losing habits or plays beyond the timeframe where he has the winning edge.

This player I'm describing is a loser, not a winner. He's not playing with the percentages. This type of bettor plays as if the goal were to lose. If he can't lose today, there's always tomorrow. For players hell-bent on losing, it doesn't take long for the losses to catch up with them. We've all seen it happen time and time again.
But losing is not what this book is about. It's about winning, and that's where I want your focus to be. What I'm trying to teach you here is how to win. Part of this formula is to use the winning techniques and strategies I describe throughout this book. Another part— the most important part—is to manage your money properly. If you don't handle your money intelligently and with a good plan from the start, you're going to be a loser at gambling.
How you feel most definitely affects your overall chances of winning. There's no question about that. A player who goes into a game with the goal of winning does everything he can to achieve that goal. This gambler will closely follow the money management advice in this section. That's the mark of a winner. He'll play within his means, set reasonable limits, and control himself at the table. When he's winning big, he'll make sure a good chunk of that money stays with him.

Smart money management requires you to have a bankroll large enough to withstand the normal fluctuations of a poker game and to play for stakes within your financial and emotional means. In a sense, you must be street smart. There's no worse mistake than playing with money that you need for rent, food, or other living expenses. Your constant fear of losing that money will affect your play and influence you to make decisions that run contrary to sound poker principles. This brings us to the most important gambling dictum.

Never gamble with money you cannot afford to lose, either financially or emotionally.
This caveat cannot be emphasized enough. Gambling with funds you need is a foolish play. Gambling involves chance, and the short term possibilities of taking a loss are real, no matter how easy the game may appear to be and no matter how stacked the odds are. Crazy things happen in gambling; that's what it's all about. If you never play over your head, you'll never suffer.

Find a game with stakes that make you comfortable, a game where the betting range fits your temperament and emotional makeup. If the larger bets of the particular game you're playing make your heart pump too hard, you're over your head. You need to find a game offering lower betting limits.

When you play with "scared money," you're easily bullied and pushed away from your optimum playing style. To win, you must go into the action with an edge and every emotional asset you have. You must not give your opponents the chance to push you around because the stakes are too dear for you. They'll figure that out quickly, and you'll be at a heavy disadvantage.

Remember that poker is a form of entertainment. As such, you must keep it in perspective. If the fear of losing money creates undue anxiety in you, the entertainment value (and probably your winning expectation) will slip rapidly. It's time to take a breather. Recoup your confidence; then hit the tables with fresh vigor. Play only with that winning feeling. Recognizing that emotions affect the quality of play is an important step in making poker an enjoyable and profitable experience.

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Hold 'em, or Texas hold 'em, as the game is sometimes called, is steadily growing in popularity, and is perhaps best associated with freewheeling high action poker. Players receive two face-down cards. They combine these with the five face-up community cards shared by all the players to form their best five-card hand. Altogether, hold 'em has four betting rounds. At the showdown, the highest ranking hand wins the pot. If heavy betting has forced out all opponents, the last remaining player wins.

THE PLAY OF THE GAME
The dealer deals cards one at a time, beginning with the player at the button or dealer's left, and proceeding clockwise, until all players have received two face down cards. The player to the left of the dealer goes first in this round. He is known as the small blind. The player to his left goes next, and he is known as the big blind.

Both these players must make "blind" bets—mandatory opening wagers that create immediate action since succeeding players are forced to call them to remain active. The small blind is normally smaller than the lower range bet in limit poker, while the big blind is typically equal to the lower range bet. For example, in a $3-$6 limit game, the small blind might be a $1 bet, and the big blind would be $3.

The required blinds can vary. Some hold 'em games may even play with no blind; in these instances players must either bet or fold. Blind or no blind, checking is not allowed on the first round of hold 'em.

In casino games, a button is used to simulate the dealer's position, since a house employee actually deals the game. The button is moved clockwise around the table after each deal so that every player in turn gets to be the imaginary dealer and can benefit from that advantageous position.

Let's look at a $3-$6 limit game to see how the betting goes. The first player to act sits to the dealer's left. He must open betting by placing a $1 blind into the pot. This is a forced wager, and he must make it regardless of how poor his cards might be. The player at the blind's left must either call this $1 blind, raise it $2, or fold. If this player folds, each succeeding player is faced with the same options: call, raise, or fold.

If the blind gets raised $2, the next player must either call the $3 ($1 blind plus $2 raise), raise $3 to make the total bet $6 to the following player, or fold. After the $1 blind and initial $2 raise, all further raises during this round must be in $3 incre-merits. The maximum number of raises permitted during a round is generally between three and five raises. If no player has called the $1 blind bet, the blind wins the antes. The deal passes on clockwise to the next player for the next hand.

Once the initial betting round is over, three cards are turned face up in the center of the table. Known as the flop, these cards are used by all the players. Each player now has five cards to form a hand—his two hole cards and three community cards.
The next round of betting begins. This is called third street, and it also starts with the blind. If he has dropped, the player in the next active position to his left begins this betting round. Bets and raises during this round are in $3 increments only. In a $5-$10 game, bets and raises would be limited to $5 increments, and in a $15-$30 game, $15 increments.

On the following round, fourth street, a fourth community card is dealt face up on the table. It's called the turn. Players now have a total of six cards possible to form their best five. Betting in this round and on the following round, fifth street, begins with the blind. If he has folded, the next active player to his left begins the betting, which is in the upper limit. In the $3-$6 game, all bets and raises are in $6 increments, while in the $5-$ 10 game, bets and raises would be in $10 increments, and in a $15-$30 game, $30 increments.

There is no forced opening bet on fourth street (or fifth street, which follows), and the first player to act may check to open play. Subsequent players may check as well. If all players check, then the betting round is over and fifth street play will follow. However, should a player open betting on fourth street, all active players must call that bet to remain in the pot. On fourth street and fifth street, all bets are in the upper tier of the betting range. In a $3-$6 game, the opening bet and all future raises must be in $6 increments.

After fourth street betting, the fifth and final community card, called the river, will be turned over in the center of the table. Players now combine their two hole cards with five of the community cards to form their best and final five-card hand. At fifth street, which is what this round is called, there is one final betting round, followed by the showdown. The highest ranking hand wins at the showdown. If all opponents have folded, the last remaining player wins the pot by default, and collects all the antes, bets, and raises that were made.

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